Monthly Archives: March 2010

Painting Process Step Three: Masking and Painting

After my paper is on the board there is just one more step before I get to start applying paint: cut a frisket mask.  The frisket covers several areas of the painting and repels water, keeping them white while I work on the rest of the scene.  For this painting, I’ve masked a rectangular section of the ceiling, the windows on the left and right and the girl.  Frisket masks have become a really important part of my work.  To get even areas of color, like the floor in this painting, I get the paper very wet and apply several layers of paint.  Without masks, it would be nearly impossible to keep the red from the floor from seeping into the girl, for example. With the mask I don’t have that problem, and when I’m finished painting the areas surrounding the girl, I can remove it and paint her.

In this picture you can see the masked areas, and my first layers of paint.  I start with light washes and block in major areas of color.  From there, it’s a process of slowly building up color until I reach the right value and hue that I want.  I constantly refer back to my original sketch to check how dark or light I intended to make an area.  I don’t finish one area, then move to the next, but instead do a little here a little there so that the all areas of the scene progress evenly.  The exception, of course is the masked areas, which I generally leave until near the end to paint.  Stay tuned, I’ll discuss more of that in the next post.

Painting Process Step Two: Transfer the Drawing

This is a continuation of my painting process series.  If you haven’t read the previous post, you may want to start at step one.

After I’m finished with my preliminary drawing my next step is to transfer that drawing to a nice piece of watercolor paper.  I use a 300 pound hot-press paper, made by Fabriano.  It’s a very thick paper with a flat surface.  The flat surface is much easier to draw on than the rougher cold-press papers and the thickness allows it to absorb a lot of water and paint without buckling.

Tracing drawing onto watercolor paper

I use a lightbox to help me trace the drawing onto the watercolor paper with a hard (H or 2H) pencil.  I like the harder pencil in this case because leaves a light line which I can easily erase.  When I’m tracing, I try to do it quickly and accurately, but I try not to get to hung up in details, because with the light shining from behind the image I can’t really see the paper very well.  After I’m done tracing, and I take the paper off the lightbox, then I very carefully add details, and adjust the drawing.  This is the final step before I start applying paint, and I want to be sure everything is just the way I want it.

When the drawing is done, I soak it in water for 5 minutes and then staple it(while  it’s still wet) to my painting board.  The board is 1/2″ plywood.  After the paper dries, it will be ready for painting.  Because it’s been presoaked, the paper the surface will remain flat as I paint on it.

Watercolor paper stapled to board

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